An ornate and well-preserved Victorian boozer now enjoying a second-life as a gastropub. Too far north for City workers, it can be quiet on weekday lunchtimes, but the intricate and beautiful mosaic floor, open fire and elaborate wall tiles make up for the lack of punters. On the menu is a fine plate (£11.50) of high-quality chorizo and hams, served with sweet figs and large capers. The Baked Colton Bassett Stilton (£6.50) comes with a delicious walnut dressing, but there is too little cheese. The pan-fried chicken supreme (£9.50) with pine nuts sometimes arrives without the promised sweetness of the sultanas. The creamy parsnip mash(£3.50) makes for a tasty side order, but like the main courses, it can arrive barely warm. Still, there is a good range of beers on tap, including the mighty Czech Budvar. 7/10
